Ushuaia

At 55 degrees latitude south, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is closer to the South Pole than to Argentina's northern border with Bolivia. It is the capital and tourism base for Tierra del Fuego, the island at the southernmost tip of Argentina.Although its stark physical beauty is str... At 55 degrees latitude south, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is closer to the South Pole than to Argentina's northern border with Bolivia. It is the capital and tourism base for Tierra del Fuego, the island at the southernmost tip of Argentina.Although its stark physical beauty is striking, Tierra del Fuego's historical allure is based more on its mythical past than on rugged reality. The island was inhabited for 6,000 years by Yámana, Haush, Selk'nam, and Alakaluf Indians. But in 1902 Argentina, eager to populate Patagonia to bolster its territorial claims, moved to initiate an Ushuaian penal colony, establishing the permanent settlement of its most southern territories and, by implication, everything in between.When the prison closed in 1947, Ushuaia had a population of about 3,000, made up mainly of former inmates and prison staff. Today the Indians of Darwin's "missing link" theory are long gone—wiped out by diseases brought by settlers and by indifference to their plight—and the 60,000 residents of Ushuaia are hitching their star to tourism.The city rightly (if perhaps too loudly) promotes itself as the southernmost city in the world (Puerto Williams, a few miles south on the Chilean side of the Beagle Channel, is a small town). You can make your way to the tourism office to get your clichéd, but oh-so-necessary, "Southernmost City in the World" passport stamp. Ushuaia feels like a frontier boomtown, at heart still a rugged, weather-beaten fishing village, but exhibiting the frayed edges of a city that quadrupled in size in the '70s and '80s and just keeps growing. Unpaved portions of Ruta 3, the last stretch of the Pan-American Highway, which connects Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, are finally being paved. The summer months (December through March) draw more than 120,000 visitors, and dozens of cruise ships. The city is trying to extend those visits with events like March's Marathon at the End of the World and by increasing the gamut of winter activities buoyed by the excellent snow conditions.A terrific trail winds through the town up to the Martial Glacier, where a ski lift can help cut down a steep kilometer of your journey. The chaotic and contradictory urban landscape includes a handful of luxury hotels amid the concrete of public housing projects. Scores of "sled houses" (wooden shacks) sit precariously on upright piers, ready for speedy displacement to a different site. But there are also many small, picturesque homes with tiny, carefully tended gardens. Many of the newer homes are built in a Swiss-chalet style, reinforcing the idea that this is a town into which tourism has breathed new life. At the same time, the weather-worn pastel colors that dominate the town's landscape remind you that Ushuaia was once just a tiny fishing village, snuggled at the end of the Earth.As you stand on the banks of the Canal Beagle (Beagle Channel) near Ushuaia, the spirit of the farthest corner of the world takes hold. What stands out is the light: at sundown the landscape is cast in a subdued, sensual tone; everything feels closer, softer, and more human in dimension despite the vastness of the setting. The snowcapped mountains reflect the setting sun back onto a stream rolling into the channel, as nearby peaks echo their image—on a windless day—in the still waters.Above the city rise the last mountains of the Andean Cordillera, and just south and west of Ushuaia they finally vanish into the often-stormy sea. Snow whitens the peaks well into summer. Nature is the principal attraction here, with trekking, fishing, horseback riding, wildlife spotting, and sailing among the most rewarding activities, especially in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego National Park). Read More

Drake Passage Navigation

Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost regio... Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost region of the Americas to the Antarctic Peninsula, the northern point of The White Continent. This waterway where cold southern ocean meets warm northern sea water creates powerful currents that test your mettle. But the rewards for the journeyer that braves these waters do not compare. The meeting of warm and cold waters creates an environment that attracts extraordinary wildlife. Drake Passage offers the chance to witness the likes of humpback whales and hourglass dolphins that accompany the voyage. The soundtrack of the 48-hour journey through the Drake Passage includes the crash of the ocean against the ship and the cry of petrels, skuas, and gulls. While the waterway is famous for its challenging navigation, you may still get another side of the Drake Passage. On some occasions, the channel is calm and tranquil, making for a pleasant voyage into Antarctica. That's one of the more splendid characteristics of the Drake Passage - you never know what you will get. As you emerge from the Drake Passage, the mammoth, icy peaks of the South Shetland Islands loom ahead, greeting you on your victorious landing. You have completed the rite of passage to explore the seventh continent. Read More

Drake Passage Navigation

Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost regio... Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost region of the Americas to the Antarctic Peninsula, the northern point of The White Continent. This waterway where cold southern ocean meets warm northern sea water creates powerful currents that test your mettle. But the rewards for the journeyer that braves these waters do not compare. The meeting of warm and cold waters creates an environment that attracts extraordinary wildlife. Drake Passage offers the chance to witness the likes of humpback whales and hourglass dolphins that accompany the voyage. The soundtrack of the 48-hour journey through the Drake Passage includes the crash of the ocean against the ship and the cry of petrels, skuas, and gulls. While the waterway is famous for its challenging navigation, you may still get another side of the Drake Passage. On some occasions, the channel is calm and tranquil, making for a pleasant voyage into Antarctica. That's one of the more splendid characteristics of the Drake Passage - you never know what you will get. As you emerge from the Drake Passage, the mammoth, icy peaks of the South Shetland Islands loom ahead, greeting you on your victorious landing. You have completed the rite of passage to explore the seventh continent. Read More

Antarctic Peninsula

Remote and otherworldly, Antarctic is irresistible for its spectacular iceberg sculptures and calving glaciers, and for the possibility of up-close encounters with marine mammals and the iconic penguins. The Antarctic Peninsula – the main peninsula closest to South America – has a hum... Remote and otherworldly, Antarctic is irresistible for its spectacular iceberg sculptures and calving glaciers, and for the possibility of up-close encounters with marine mammals and the iconic penguins. The Antarctic Peninsula – the main peninsula closest to South America – has a human history of almost 200 years, with explorers, sealers, whalers, and scientists who have come to work, and eventually intrepid visitors coming to enjoy this pristine and remote wilderness. It is a region of protected bays, unscaled snow-capped mountains, vast glaciers and a few places where whalers or scientists have worked. Just as irresistible are the many Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguin colonies, the seals basking on ice floes, the whales and orcas. Read More

Antarctic Peninsula

Remote and otherworldly, Antarctic is irresistible for its spectacular iceberg sculptures and calving glaciers, and for the possibility of up-close encounters with marine mammals and the iconic penguins. The Antarctic Peninsula – the main peninsula closest to South America – has a hum... Remote and otherworldly, Antarctic is irresistible for its spectacular iceberg sculptures and calving glaciers, and for the possibility of up-close encounters with marine mammals and the iconic penguins. The Antarctic Peninsula – the main peninsula closest to South America – has a human history of almost 200 years, with explorers, sealers, whalers, and scientists who have come to work, and eventually intrepid visitors coming to enjoy this pristine and remote wilderness. It is a region of protected bays, unscaled snow-capped mountains, vast glaciers and a few places where whalers or scientists have worked. Just as irresistible are the many Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguin colonies, the seals basking on ice floes, the whales and orcas. Read More

Antarctic Peninsula

Remote and otherworldly, Antarctic is irresistible for its spectacular iceberg sculptures and calving glaciers, and for the possibility of up-close encounters with marine mammals and the iconic penguins. The Antarctic Peninsula – the main peninsula closest to South America – has a hum... Remote and otherworldly, Antarctic is irresistible for its spectacular iceberg sculptures and calving glaciers, and for the possibility of up-close encounters with marine mammals and the iconic penguins. The Antarctic Peninsula – the main peninsula closest to South America – has a human history of almost 200 years, with explorers, sealers, whalers, and scientists who have come to work, and eventually intrepid visitors coming to enjoy this pristine and remote wilderness. It is a region of protected bays, unscaled snow-capped mountains, vast glaciers and a few places where whalers or scientists have worked. Just as irresistible are the many Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguin colonies, the seals basking on ice floes, the whales and orcas. Read More

At Sea

At Sea

South Georgia Island

South Georgia is a breathtaking destination of towering snow-covered mountains, mighty glaciers, and low-lying grasslands that attract an astounding concentration of wildlife. It is possible to find Southern fur seals, Southern elephant seals and a variety of albatross species includi... South Georgia is a breathtaking destination of towering snow-covered mountains, mighty glaciers, and low-lying grasslands that attract an astounding concentration of wildlife. It is possible to find Southern fur seals, Southern elephant seals and a variety of albatross species including Black-browed, Light-mantled Sooty, Grey-headed and the spectacular Wandering Albatross, plus thousands of King and Macaroni Penguins. South Georgia is also linked to the early Antarctic explorers. Captain James Cook first stepped ashore in 1775, but perhaps more famous is Ernest Shackleton’s arrival in 1916 following the sinking of his ship Endurance. Shackleton’s grave and the whaling museum at Grytviken are highlights, as would be a visit to one of the King Penguin colonies at Salisbury Plain or Gold Harbour. Read More

South Georgia Island

South Georgia is a breathtaking destination of towering snow-covered mountains, mighty glaciers, and low-lying grasslands that attract an astounding concentration of wildlife. It is possible to find Southern fur seals, Southern elephant seals and a variety of albatross species includi... South Georgia is a breathtaking destination of towering snow-covered mountains, mighty glaciers, and low-lying grasslands that attract an astounding concentration of wildlife. It is possible to find Southern fur seals, Southern elephant seals and a variety of albatross species including Black-browed, Light-mantled Sooty, Grey-headed and the spectacular Wandering Albatross, plus thousands of King and Macaroni Penguins. South Georgia is also linked to the early Antarctic explorers. Captain James Cook first stepped ashore in 1775, but perhaps more famous is Ernest Shackleton’s arrival in 1916 following the sinking of his ship Endurance. Shackleton’s grave and the whaling museum at Grytviken are highlights, as would be a visit to one of the King Penguin colonies at Salisbury Plain or Gold Harbour. Read More

South Georgia Island

South Georgia is a breathtaking destination of towering snow-covered mountains, mighty glaciers, and low-lying grasslands that attract an astounding concentration of wildlife. It is possible to find Southern fur seals, Southern elephant seals and a variety of albatross species includi... South Georgia is a breathtaking destination of towering snow-covered mountains, mighty glaciers, and low-lying grasslands that attract an astounding concentration of wildlife. It is possible to find Southern fur seals, Southern elephant seals and a variety of albatross species including Black-browed, Light-mantled Sooty, Grey-headed and the spectacular Wandering Albatross, plus thousands of King and Macaroni Penguins. South Georgia is also linked to the early Antarctic explorers. Captain James Cook first stepped ashore in 1775, but perhaps more famous is Ernest Shackleton’s arrival in 1916 following the sinking of his ship Endurance. Shackleton’s grave and the whaling museum at Grytviken are highlights, as would be a visit to one of the King Penguin colonies at Salisbury Plain or Gold Harbour. Read More

At Sea

Drake Passage Navigation

Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost regio... Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost region of the Americas to the Antarctic Peninsula, the northern point of The White Continent. This waterway where cold southern ocean meets warm northern sea water creates powerful currents that test your mettle. But the rewards for the journeyer that braves these waters do not compare. The meeting of warm and cold waters creates an environment that attracts extraordinary wildlife. Drake Passage offers the chance to witness the likes of humpback whales and hourglass dolphins that accompany the voyage. The soundtrack of the 48-hour journey through the Drake Passage includes the crash of the ocean against the ship and the cry of petrels, skuas, and gulls. While the waterway is famous for its challenging navigation, you may still get another side of the Drake Passage. On some occasions, the channel is calm and tranquil, making for a pleasant voyage into Antarctica. That's one of the more splendid characteristics of the Drake Passage - you never know what you will get. As you emerge from the Drake Passage, the mammoth, icy peaks of the South Shetland Islands loom ahead, greeting you on your victorious landing. You have completed the rite of passage to explore the seventh continent. Read More

Drake Passage Navigation

Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost regio... Navigating the intrepid Drake Passage is made for the boldest of explorers. Petrels and albatrosses that glide across the skies guide the way. To witness its awesome power makes the journey to Antarctica all the more triumphant. The Drake Passage leads you from the southernmost region of the Americas to the Antarctic Peninsula, the northern point of The White Continent. This waterway where cold southern ocean meets warm northern sea water creates powerful currents that test your mettle. But the rewards for the journeyer that braves these waters do not compare. The meeting of warm and cold waters creates an environment that attracts extraordinary wildlife. Drake Passage offers the chance to witness the likes of humpback whales and hourglass dolphins that accompany the voyage. The soundtrack of the 48-hour journey through the Drake Passage includes the crash of the ocean against the ship and the cry of petrels, skuas, and gulls. While the waterway is famous for its challenging navigation, you may still get another side of the Drake Passage. On some occasions, the channel is calm and tranquil, making for a pleasant voyage into Antarctica. That's one of the more splendid characteristics of the Drake Passage - you never know what you will get. As you emerge from the Drake Passage, the mammoth, icy peaks of the South Shetland Islands loom ahead, greeting you on your victorious landing. You have completed the rite of passage to explore the seventh continent. Read More

Ushuaia

At 55 degrees latitude south, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is closer to the South Pole than to Argentina's northern border with Bolivia. It is the capital and tourism base for Tierra del Fuego, the island at the southernmost tip of Argentina.Although its stark physical beauty is str... At 55 degrees latitude south, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is closer to the South Pole than to Argentina's northern border with Bolivia. It is the capital and tourism base for Tierra del Fuego, the island at the southernmost tip of Argentina.Although its stark physical beauty is striking, Tierra del Fuego's historical allure is based more on its mythical past than on rugged reality. The island was inhabited for 6,000 years by Yámana, Haush, Selk'nam, and Alakaluf Indians. But in 1902 Argentina, eager to populate Patagonia to bolster its territorial claims, moved to initiate an Ushuaian penal colony, establishing the permanent settlement of its most southern territories and, by implication, everything in between.When the prison closed in 1947, Ushuaia had a population of about 3,000, made up mainly of former inmates and prison staff. Today the Indians of Darwin's "missing link" theory are long gone—wiped out by diseases brought by settlers and by indifference to their plight—and the 60,000 residents of Ushuaia are hitching their star to tourism.The city rightly (if perhaps too loudly) promotes itself as the southernmost city in the world (Puerto Williams, a few miles south on the Chilean side of the Beagle Channel, is a small town). You can make your way to the tourism office to get your clichéd, but oh-so-necessary, "Southernmost City in the World" passport stamp. Ushuaia feels like a frontier boomtown, at heart still a rugged, weather-beaten fishing village, but exhibiting the frayed edges of a city that quadrupled in size in the '70s and '80s and just keeps growing. Unpaved portions of Ruta 3, the last stretch of the Pan-American Highway, which connects Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, are finally being paved. The summer months (December through March) draw more than 120,000 visitors, and dozens of cruise ships. The city is trying to extend those visits with events like March's Marathon at the End of the World and by increasing the gamut of winter activities buoyed by the excellent snow conditions.A terrific trail winds through the town up to the Martial Glacier, where a ski lift can help cut down a steep kilometer of your journey. The chaotic and contradictory urban landscape includes a handful of luxury hotels amid the concrete of public housing projects. Scores of "sled houses" (wooden shacks) sit precariously on upright piers, ready for speedy displacement to a different site. But there are also many small, picturesque homes with tiny, carefully tended gardens. Many of the newer homes are built in a Swiss-chalet style, reinforcing the idea that this is a town into which tourism has breathed new life. At the same time, the weather-worn pastel colors that dominate the town's landscape remind you that Ushuaia was once just a tiny fishing village, snuggled at the end of the Earth.As you stand on the banks of the Canal Beagle (Beagle Channel) near Ushuaia, the spirit of the farthest corner of the world takes hold. What stands out is the light: at sundown the landscape is cast in a subdued, sensual tone; everything feels closer, softer, and more human in dimension despite the vastness of the setting. The snowcapped mountains reflect the setting sun back onto a stream rolling into the channel, as nearby peaks echo their image—on a windless day—in the still waters.Above the city rise the last mountains of the Andean Cordillera, and just south and west of Ushuaia they finally vanish into the often-stormy sea. Snow whitens the peaks well into summer. Nature is the principal attraction here, with trekking, fishing, horseback riding, wildlife spotting, and sailing among the most rewarding activities, especially in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego National Park). Read More